Right – a little story about scopes mounts and new rifles. I purchased a new 375 H&H CZ Safari in mid 2013, and shortly after, ordered quick release mounts from Alaska Arms in both 30mm and 1 inch, which duly turned up a few weeks later, as explained, due to production schedules. Great service, from the other side of the world.

In the mean time, wanting to get some loads sorted out and needing suitable mounts – I purchased 30mm CZ mounts to suit. In Australia, the gun does not come with the mounts supplied. These were used to mount an excellent Kahles 2.5 – 10 x 50 – however, when trying to zero the scope – I found that at the full extent of the adjustment of the scope, the closest I could get to the point of impact was 100mm – not at all a good result for a new rifle / mount combination, especially as both are from the same manufacturer.

Now, you might think the simple solution would have been to take the lot back to the dealer and let the importer sort it out. Well, I live in Australia, compared to the US, we have VERY restrictive licensing laws. As I reside in Western Australia the situation is compounded – here we need to apply separately for EACH fire arm, with supporting documentation outlining reasons for requiring a new firearm and it is a protracted process that takes up to 4 months – even as , in my case, I have other high powers and handguns.

To give up the gun for a warranty claim may well mean I don’t see the gun for – well, who knew how long. I persevered – the age old method of shim metal under the offending back mount – this got me on the paper and everything seemed OK even though I was somewhat disappointed.

After a couple of hundred workup reloads and the odd quick hunting trip which went pretty well, all seemed alright and I arranged a trip to the Nullabore, 600 miles East of Perth, my home town.

The first couple of shots were less than impressive – upon inspection, the mounts had come loose at the center pillar screws. Rarely do things under stress preform as hoped – for long. I should have both expected this and checked for it.

Upon close inspection and the application of vernier calipers, I came to the conclusion that receiver dove tails might not be in alignment, as the CZ mounts both measured precisely the same in all facets. At this stage, I was resigned to the warranty course. Then I read an article about scope mount alignment and honing kits – had a mate (buddy – OK (: .. ) turn some up and checked out where the problem really was.

Custom made mount alignment pins fitted into the Alaskan Arms 1 inch and 30mm quick release mounts. CZ mounts in foreground.

I then remembered my Alaska Arms mounts, tucked away in my cupbord – beautifully presented in their tin case and wrapped in a velvet drawstring bag, each mount individually packaged in a moisture proof zip lock plastic bag, with simple straight forward instructions included. You might think I’m going on a bit about the packaging, but I believe it shows the devotion to quality you take with your product.

I did the 30 mm rings first and low and behold – almost perfect alignment. I thought this was too good to be true, so immediately fitted the 1 inch rings – same result. The miss alignment is less than 0.08 mm – if I was measuring it correctly – it ranged from 0.05mm to 0.12mm but most of the readings were around 0.08mm – in effect, nothing to worry about with both sets.

As mentioned – almost perfect alignment with the Alaska Arms rings on the same rifle

At this stage, I’ve mounted the scope (the Kahles 2.5 – 10 x 50 ) in the 30 mm quick release rings. I’d centered the scope on both adjustments, windage and elevation prior to fitting and was keen to see how it came into line with the new mounts. I have a lazar bore sighting instrument so fitted it to my barrel and turned it on – at 50 metres (54 and a bit yards) it was within 50 mm (2in) – incredible considering my first debacle with the “genuine” rings. I removed and refitted the scope as per the quick release instructions supplied with the rings – same point of aim. I’ve yet to live fire to sight in, but this is an incredible result considering I couldn’t get closer that 4 inches with full elevation previously, using the CZ mounts with no shimming.

I will of course need to confirm results with live firing and will get a 1 inch scope of a fixed 2 or 2.5 power so I can assess both setups, and will continue this report in due course. I do however, have enough experience with things mechanical and optical as well as guns/shooting, to know that I can now expect the results I was hoping for when I first purchased this rig. It’s then my intention to submit this article (suitably edited and with the live firing results) to a couple of our Australian shooting publications in the hopes they’ll publish my story. I need to clean it up and will probably need photos of the 1 inch rings – I still have the pins mounted in them and as I can now confidently remove and replace my scope – this presents no problems.

Kahles Scope with rings fitted prior to mounting on the rifle.

Now, you may be wondering why it took me so long to get around to trying you rings. Well, in truth – I was convinced the dovetails machined into the rifle’s receiver were to blame – as I said, I’d run the verniers over the CZ mounts and prior to having the alignment pins made up, I was convinced they were OK. In part, this was confirmed in my mind because I’d mounted the Kahles with the front mount only, leaving the rear one loose, and it was free of the rear dovetail by about 0.8 mm. Obviously those CZ rings are …. well, they’re not good.

So Morris, in closing, let me say how absolutely pleased I am that I made the choice to deal with you, on my part, blind good luck although I did do some research – the fit and finish of your mounts is superb.

If you’re interested, I’ll finish the story when I’ve done some shooting.

In any case, my very best regards and thanks

Dane Sorensen

To check our our Ruger scope rings click here.

Proper installation of Ruger factory scope rings is crucial to a lifetime of trouble free service. Whenever I get a rifle in the shop with the complaint that "it just won't shoot any more", it often is due to an improperly installed ring or improperly torqued ring screws. The old adage "We don't have time to do it right but we have time to do it over" applies. The integral scope bases found on Ruger firearms nicely eliminate one of the causes of erratic groups; namely scope base movement caused by screws that have worked loose over time. Verify the Rings It is a good idea to verify that you have the correct scope rings for your Ruger firearm.  Ruger manufacturers two groups of firearms; one group uses the same height ring front and rear and the other group uses different heights because the integral firearm bases are not the same height.  Additionally, your specific scope will further determine the correct ring heights.  It is a good idea to visit the Ruger website and verify that you are using the correct height rings for your firearm as well as the correct height rings for your scope's objective lens diameter. A note on Ruger ring heights: Ruger 1 inch rings are offered in 4 heights #3-#6 and the 30MM rings in three heights #4-#6. The heights change in 1/8 inch increments.  If you have not determined the proper rings and ring heights for your firearm/scope combination, visit the  Ruger site shopruger.com and make this determination using the 'scope ring finder'. Develop a System Applying a consistent and principle-based technique to scope mounting will give excellent results.  Although not absolutely necessary, I like to use a quality torque driver with the appropriate size bits so that screw tensions are constant. The Wheeler Engineering F.A.T. Wrench has served me well for this use. Proper leveling of the scope to the receiver is a must and I like to use the Wheeler Engineering crosshair leveling kit for this.  A scope lapping tool can be purchased from Brownell's to ensure the rings are concentric which eliminates stress on the scope caused by misalignment. Friction paper for the inside surface of the rings will finish the job anchoring the scope in the rings, a must for any firearm that has recoil. Before you start, verify that the firearm is unloaded and, when possible, remove the bolt. Observe safe firearm practices at all times. The much used warning that failure to do so may result in grievous bodily injury or death applies here and Alaska Arms LLC shall not be responsible for injury, death or damage to property from misuse or improper installation of Ruger scope rings. Secure the Firearm and Prepare the Components Place the rifle in a secure gun cradle if you have one or in a bench vise if you don't.  If you are using a bench vise use padded jaws and be careful not to over-tighten the vise damaging the stock.  Omitting steps will result in a less than desirable installation.  Take your time and follow these directions and you will have as perfect an installation as is possible. Verify that the receiver and rings are clean and free of any burrs or nicks, lightly stoning if necessary to true the bearing surfaces. As a side note, compact scopes tend to be too short for long magnum receivers.  Visually verify that the front ring can be mounted on the scope in a position that provides correct eye relief.  If not, you might consider a Leupold offering through their custom shop.  It is a long tube fixed three power made specifically for long magnum actions.  I think they are a bargain at around $300.00 that includes your selection of reticles. Installing the Lower Ring Assembly Place the front ring lower assembly over the integral receiver base aligning the recoil tab on the bottom of the ring with the cutout in the receiver. Push the ring forward towards the muzzle as you torque the windage screw on the bottom of the ring to 40 inch-lbs. Rings shift forward under recoil and this eliminates one of the causes of a drifting point of impact when a scope is first installed and sighted in.  The section of the screw that clamps into the receiver dovetail cutout is as cast and tends to bite out of alignment if the bottom of the ring does not make full contact on the dovetail. This point was driven home after a hunting companion took a nasty tumble down a hill and had his point of impact shift up 3 feet at 100 yards. This was not discovered until later in the hunt when he took careful aim for a heart shot on a moose facing him at about 75 yards.  He hit his trophy squarely in the forehead and ruining the skull plate on a nice set of antlers. The windage screw had shifted relieving all clamping force on the rear ring. Repeat this process when installing the rear ring lower assembly. Lapping the Rings Now is a good time to lap the scope rings inline with the receiver. This step eliminates all undo stress on the scope tube and extends scope life. Carefully follow the manufacture's instructions for lapping.  Brownell's offers these handy tools to lap 1 inch and 30MM rings as well as a full assortment of lapping compounds. Rarely will you find both rings in perfect alignment making these laps a worthwhile investment.  Misaligned rings tend to twist and bend the scope tube as it is tightened in position and if the misalignment is severe enough it can cause the scope to lose it's seal. Misaligned rings also cause receiver stress that has a negative affect on accuracy.  These problems are resolved by properly lapping the rings. Installing Friction Paper Prior to installing the scope in your newly mounted and lapped rings, place friction paper on the inside mating surface of both the ring bottom halves and the top caps. Small address labels work well in a pinch. The inside surfaces on Ruger rings are quiet rough and tend to scuff the contact area on the scope. Mounting and Aligning the Scope Place the scope in the rings making certain that the only points of contact with the firearm are the rings. The front (objective lens) must clear the barrel and rear sight.  Establish eye relief and level the cross hairs using the leveling kit made by Wheeler Engineering or one of the other leveling devices available.  This will eliminate a lot of frustrating trial and error guessing.  The Wheeler kit is a simple set and includes a level that is placed on the receiver and second level that is placed on the scope. First the action is leveled and then the scope.  Crosscheck between the levels making certain they have not shifted during the installation. A gentlemen brought me his rifle after he installed a set of rings complaining that although he had done a perfect installation the gun was way off at over 100 yards. The problem was easy to find, he had rotated the crosshairs a good 10 Degrees out of alignment during installation and had to cant the rifle to bring them in when shooting, thus placing the scope out of alignment with the bore. Install the top caps over the scope tube and reset the torque driver to 20 inch-lbs.  Now, using a crossing pattern and alternating between the front and rear ring, torque the screws. Be careful to maintain an even gap between the top caps and the bottom halves of the rings. Once the installation has been completed recheck crosshair alignment with the levels one last time and adjust if necessary. Bore sighting A quality Boresighter is a good investment and will save you time and ammunition. Lacking one you can place the rifle in a secure rest and sight through the bore at a distant object or light and without moving the firearm adjust the crosshairs to the same object. This will get you on the target at 25 yards. Your firearm is now ready to be sighted in with live ammo at the range. Safe hunting, Morris Melani

Materials used: Norton No-Fil Adalox sand papers Wet or dry sand papers sanding blocks Pilkington's Classic Gun Stock Finish boiled linseed oil

Finishing the Stock Over the years I have tried different wood finishes on gunstocks and I like the sand-in type the best.  It has proven to be durable in Alaska's challenging climatic conditions, is relatively easy to repair and provides a lustrous display of the stock's innate figure and character.

Wood surface preparation starts with sanding out all marks left by the tools that were used to shape the stock.   Norton's No-Fil Adalox sand papers are aggressive and extraordinarily durable.  They are simply the finest sand papers I have every used in cabinet making or stock making and it comes in a wide range of grits.  I use these papers for nearly all my metal preparation also.

I start with the P150 paper and incrementally move through  240 and finish with 320.  I have a number of small wood blocks and dowels that are used as paper backing to properly maintain the curves, the flat areas and the transition zones that are part of the stock profile.

Once the final sanding is done, I turn the water faucet on and dab and spread small amounts of very warm water over the entire stock surface using my fingers.  The stock is then set aside to dry.  The purpose of this step is to release the wood fiber that has been pressed into the wood pores during the final sanding.  This wood fiber when wetted lifts out of the pores and dries above the sanded surface.  If I have sun I put the stock in a window frame to dry and can sand the 'whiskers' off in several hours.  If this is not possible, I let the stock set overnight to dry.  When dry, I give the entire stock surface a light sanding with 320 grit paper to just remove the whisker.  This process is then repeated and the stock is now ready for application of the finish.

I used Flecto's Varathane Plastic Oil and Sealer to good effect for a number of years and when it was no longer available I started using Pilkington's red-brown Classic Gun Stock Finish.  It is relatively easy to use and it gives consistent results on the thin shelled walnut woods that I work.   I apply the finish using the method described in the instruction sheet accompanying the finish.  In a nutshell, the initial applications are diluted finish to allow for deep penetration into the pores.  Applications between drying continue until a surface build up starts.  The pores are now filled using wet and dry sand papers.  Small pieces of the paper are dipped in finish and , again backed to maintain proper shapes, are used to just scuff the wood surface creating a slurry of wood dust particles and finish.  This slurry is then worked into the pores and allowed to dry and then the process is repeated with finer grit papers until the pores are fully filled.  I finish with 400 paper and then the stock is ready to checker.

After the checkering is completed a series of very thin applications of linseed oil completes the job.

Leather Covering a Pad While putting the finish in and on the stock is old hat, I have never done a leather covered pad.  I purchased a piece of leather a number of years ago from Galazan that was advertised for this use.  I bought it from them as it was the only place I could find leather specifically marketed for covering recoil pads and knew nothing about what was required.  Because the leather is thick and the underlying soft part of the leather was inconsistent I had never used it.  There is a locally owned leather store in my area that has a large selection of high quality pig and goat leather and I bought four large pieces from them.  The pieces are considerably lower in price than the Galazan leather, three to four times as large and better quality so when I got ready to do the pad on this rifle I started with one of these pieces.

I picked a piece that had the least stretch thinking that the wetting before forming would give it the pliability needed to pull out the wrinkles.  As you will recall, the butt of my rifle has a curve so my form also had to have the appropriate curve.  I used a 5/8" thick piece of hardwood that was 3 1/2" wide by 6" long.  I drilled screw holes in it and mounted the recoil pad on it.  The form was then put in a vise to hold it firmly.  The leather piece was soaked in luke warm water and laid on top of the pad.  I started by stapling the leather onto one side of the form.  Then I pulled the leather taut on the other side and stapled that tail onto the side of the form as well.  I then did the heel and toe of the pad.  With the four quadrants secure I started stretching and securing between each  set of staples and when I had these four staples in I continued to work between the staples.  I then put another series of staples in as high on the form as I could to pull the leather in under the pad.

I could not get all the wrinkles out at the toe of the pad and thought that they might go away when the leather dried.  Not so.  I abandoned this piece and reverted to the Galazan leather.  This leather measured .037" and the other leather I had was around .025".  I took the pad back to the disc sander and removed .015" all the way around.  Had I not done this the pad would have been quite visibly proud of the butt stock.  The repeat exercise with the Galazan leather went as planned and then it was dry I located and marked the pad screw location on the outside and removed it from the pad which I left mounted on the form.

I don't like plugs in leather covered pads so using a sharp xacto blade I cut a longitudinal slit in the leather about 3/16" long at each of the screw locations.  I everted the leather and applied a thin, even coat of 3M spray contact cement to it.  Then contact cement was applied to the pad also and after the coated surfaces became tacky the leather was carefully repositioned on the pad.

The shank of a small diameter Philips driver was lightly coated with a gel type lubricant used on double gun hinge pins and the pad was removed from the form without backing the screws out.  The leather that would be attached to the bottom of the pad was trimmed and wedges were removed to allow it to lie flat.  Using a brush-on contact cement the leather was glued down to the bottom surface of the pad.  Once again lubricating the screw bit, the pad was installed on the stock.

Next-Part 7-Engraving, Rust Bluing and Nitre Bluing