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Quick Detachable Rings on Ruger Firearms

Quick Detachable Rings on Ruger Firearms

Installing quick detachable rings on Ruger firearms

By following a few basic steps you will obtain excellent results combining our scope rings with your firearm.  Before we get started let's do some safety steps:  Verify that the firearm is unloaded; remove any and all ammunition from the work area; and; remove the bolt from the firearm when possible.  And remember, observe safe firearm handling practices at all times.  Failure to do so may result in grievous bodily injury or death.  Alaska Arms LLC shall not be responsible for injury, death or damage to property from misuse, improper installation or modification of this product.

The first step is to obtain the correct size rings based on the optics you plan to use. Keep in mind that the compact scopes tend to be too short for some of the long magnum actions so consider action length when selecting a scope.  Leupold now offers fixed three power long tube scopes through its custom shop with a selection of reticles for around $300.00.

Once the optics have been selected, review our scope ring selection matrix (alaskaarmsllc.com) and select the correct ring set. The design of our rings allow them to be assembled in our shop with the levers on the right or left side.  It is best to have the levers on the opposite side from loading and ejection ports and the last decision in the selection matrix will be the lever location.  Generally you will want to choose levers on the left hand side of the firearm for right hand shooters/firearms and on the right hand side of the firearm for left hand shooters/firearms.

We will exchange a set of rings at no cost if you make an error when ordering, or if you would like to try a lower set.  Rings are shipped USPS flat rate priority mail with tracking and arrive 5-7 days after ordering.

This is a good time to review the 'Alaska Arms LLC' YouTube video on installing the rings and download the Ruger ring installation PDF from the alaskaarmsllc.com website. After reviewing the PDF obtain any tools that you lack so that you can do a proper installation.

When the rings arrive verify that they are the correct height and finish, then review the installation instructions that are included with the rings. You will find the ring size engraved on the side of the rings. If your firearm requires a ring set whose rings are different heights determine the location of the high and low rings.

After you have verified that you have the correct ring set remove the top caps from the rings and place the screws and top caps in a secure location.  If the screws are lost or misplaced, replacement screws are available from alaskaarmsllc.com.  Now loosen the lock screw that is located on the front of the ring assembly.   In a later step this screw will be torqued to 25 inch/lbs and it locks the cam screw in place.  Back out the cam screw two turns.  Position the front ring onto the front integral firearm ring base being careful to align the recoil tab on the bottom of the ring in the corresponding cutout in the receiver.  While pressing down on the ring, push it towards the muzzle.  Rotate the lever to the locked (3 O'clock or 9 O'clock) position and torque the cam screw to 25 inch/lbs.  It is important you resist the temptation to rotate the cam levers to see how they feel until you have torqued the lock screw.  Again, the lock screw is found on the front of the ring lower assembly and is tightened with the 3/32 hex key that is included.  Now rotate the lever to the 12 O'clock position and press the ring towards the muzzle a second time.  This assures that the rings will repeat precise positioning each time the scope is removed and reinstalled.

Repeat the above steps with the second ring lower assembly.

With both lower assemblies properly installed, apply the enclosed friction paper on the inner surfaces of the ring lower half and the top caps.  Position the scope on lower ring halves, establish eye relief and plumb the crosshairs. I have found the Wheeler engineering crosshair leveling set to be indispensable for fast and accurate alignment.  Install the top caps and torque the screws incrementally in a cross pattern and alternating between the front and rear screws.  Be careful to maintain a even gap between the top caps and the lower ring halves.

The scope can now be replaced and removed repeating to within 1/4 MOA as long as the scope is pushed towards the muzzle as the levers are tightened.  Prior to reinstalling the scope make certain that the ring/base mating surfaces are free of grit and any foreign material.

Good hunting, Morris Melani

Quick Detachable Scope Rings

My introduction to quick detachable scope rings was back in the early 80's when I was doing metalwork out of a small shop in Northern California.  One of my customers brought a beautiful pair of BRNO rifles to show me.  He had purchased them from the PX early in the Korean War when he was a young officer in the Army. He explained that shortly after his purchase there was an embargo placed on all arms coming from Czechoslovakia in general and BRNO firearms in particular because the military side of the BRNO ARMS plant was supplying arms to the North Koreans. This embargo was to remain in effect for over 30 years, finally being lifted in the mid 80's. The pair of rifles consisted of a BRNO ZG47 and A BRNO 21H.  They showed the finest craftsmanship I have ever seen on factory rifles; the finish being exceptional and the fit being near perfect.  Beautiful as they were they had two problems that interfered with scope mounting.  Namely the bolt handle was a good 1/2 inch higher than necessary or practical precluding clearance for the bolt handle and the receiver had dovetailed square bridges when no rings were commercially available in the US.  Both of these features added to the rifles near perfect lines but made it near impossible to mount a scope. It turns out that Tom Burgess would occasionally do a small run of quick detachable scope rings for the BRNO's, squeezing them in between other metal working projects.  They were always sold well in advance of a production run and a waiting list for the next run of rings started.  Tom enjoyed steady demand for the rings both in the US and Canada as the Canadians never had a BRNO embargo and the rifles were quite common up North. My customer was able to obtain a set of the Burgess rings that he brought by with the rifles.  I must admit that I was absolutely fascinated with the simplicity of the design and ruggedness of these Burgess rings.  A simple 1/4 turn of the locking lever locked or unlocked the rings on the receiver.  Tom had springs placed under the cam plate causing a audible snap when the levers were rotated to the open position.  The lockup was solid, to say the least, and were fully adjustable if more tension was desired.  Best of all, once set, the exact same amount of force was applied to the rings every time the lever was moved to the locked position. My metal work focus at the time was strictly barrels with integral accessories and I simply did not have the time to manufacture a second badly needed set of rings for my customer.  The rings were sent to Stan McFarland.  Where the Burgess rings had a Bulls eye pattern on the levers, Stan went with recessed checkering doing great justice to the Burgess design.  Stan made a few sets over the years offering them to the trade and using them on his own custom rifles.  Like Tom, he had other distractions and made the ring sets available in limited numbers. Fast forward 20 years.  After being sidelined by an industrial injury I now had the time to devote to the rings that I had promised myself I would make 20 years earlier.  So after dipping into my retirement for a CNC mill (a HAAS VF2) and Mastercam CAD and CAM software licenses I had the necessary tools for the ring production.  As much as I admire the Burgess design, the CNC mill allowed me to make slight changes to the design more in line with my personal taste.  The Bulls eye pattern on the lever was eliminated and I added 30mm rings to the lineup.  I was now able to offer Quick Detachable rings not only for the original BRNO's but the newly imported CZ 550's. These changes took all of two years to design, build tooling and make into something that would have a place on the best custom guns as well as honest hard working rifles.  Nothing short of solid and reliable would do and I am pleased to say the rings are something I am proud of. Here in Alaska stainless steel Rugers are very common; they are affordable and reliable.  Making rings for Ruger's was something I had resisted due to the many combinations of rings used by Ruger to fit its wide array of firearms.  Making the rings was one thing, coming up with a reasonable selection matrix was another.  Simply put "how will anyone be able to find the rings they need'?  A new website with a new developer solved that problem with the creation of an interactive finder matrix that is posted at my webstore  http://www.alaskaarmsllc.com/. The next step was to adapt the Quick detachable camming system I had been using on the CZ's to Ruger firearms.  Ruger has been using the same system since the late 60's, and there are a good number of rifles in the shooting public's hands.  One of the issues I had to resolve was the recoil lug on the bottom of Ruger ring that drops into the integral Ruger bases.  It's function is to act as a stop when mounting the scope.  This lug fits into the receiver slot and the problem was solved with a hardened insert.  Something I had to consider is that not all Ruger owners are right hand shooters and I wanted the new ring design to allow both right and left hand shooters to be able to select the location of the camming levers either on the right or the left side of the scope.  By designing the block with the recoil lug that can be rotated 180 degrees the levers can be located so that they are suitable for either right or left hand firearms. One other design change was need for the Ruger adaptation.  Unlike the CZ rings (and the original Burgess design) that are split vertically, the Ruger rings are split horizontally.  This required a design change in the levers.  I was looking for a lever that would clear the side of the ring without sticking out too far that didn't sacrifice looks. Ruger rings are offered in a total of seven sizes, heights #3-#6 for the 1 inch rings and #4-#6 for the 30mm rings adding another two years to the design and production process.  The last change was to offer the rings with an industrial chrome finish that closely mirrors the factory finish of the Ruger 'white' guns. Safe hunting, Morris Melani

Scope Mounting on Ruger Firearms

Scope Mounting on Ruger Firearms

Installing Ruger factory Rings

Proper installation of Ruger factory scope rings is crucial to a lifetime of trouble free service. Whenever I get a rifle in the shop with the complaint that "it just won't shoot any more", it often is due to an improperly installed ring or improperly torqued ring screws. The old adage "We don't have time to do it right but we have time to do it over" applies. The integral scope bases found on Ruger firearms nicely eliminate one of the causes of erratic groups; namely scope base movement caused by screws that have worked loose over time. Verify the Rings It is a good idea to verify that you have the correct scope rings for your Ruger firearm.  Ruger manufacturers two groups of firearms; one group uses the same height ring front and rear and the other group uses different heights because the integral firearm bases are not the same height.  Additionally, your specific scope will further determine the correct ring heights.  It is a good idea to visit the Ruger website and verify that you are using the correct height rings for your firearm as well as the correct height rings for your scope's objective lens diameter. A note on Ruger ring heights: Ruger 1 inch rings are offered in 4 heights #3-#6 and the 30MM rings in three heights #4-#6. The heights change in 1/8 inch increments.  If you have not determined the proper rings and ring heights for your firearm/scope combination, visit the  Ruger site shopruger.com and make this determination using the 'scope ring finder'. Develop a System Applying a consistent and principle-based technique to scope mounting will give excellent results.  Although not absolutely necessary, I like to use a quality torque driver with the appropriate size bits so that screw tensions are constant. The Wheeler Engineering F.A.T. Wrench has served me well for this use. Proper leveling of the scope to the receiver is a must and I like to use the Wheeler Engineering crosshair leveling kit for this.  A scope lapping tool can be purchased from Brownell's to ensure the rings are concentric which eliminates stress on the scope caused by misalignment. Friction paper for the inside surface of the rings will finish the job anchoring the scope in the rings, a must for any firearm that has recoil. Before you start, verify that the firearm is unloaded and, when possible, remove the bolt. Observe safe firearm practices at all times. The much used warning that failure to do so may result in grievous bodily injury or death applies here and Alaska Arms LLC shall not be responsible for injury, death or damage to property from misuse or improper installation of Ruger scope rings. Secure the Firearm and Prepare the Components Place the rifle in a secure gun cradle if you have one or in a bench vise if you don't.  If you are using a bench vise use padded jaws and be careful not to over-tighten the vise damaging the stock.  Omitting steps will result in a less than desirable installation.  Take your time and follow these directions and you will have as perfect an installation as is possible. Verify that the receiver and rings are clean and free of any burrs or nicks, lightly stoning if necessary to true the bearing surfaces. As a side note, compact scopes tend to be too short for long magnum receivers.  Visually verify that the front ring can be mounted on the scope in a position that provides correct eye relief.  If not, you might consider a Leupold offering through their custom shop.  It is a long tube fixed three power made specifically for long magnum actions.  I think they are a bargain at around $300.00 that includes your selection of reticles. Installing the Lower Ring Assembly Place the front ring lower assembly over the integral receiver base aligning the recoil tab on the bottom of the ring with the cutout in the receiver. Push the ring forward towards the muzzle as you torque the windage screw on the bottom of the ring to 40 inch-lbs. Rings shift forward under recoil and this eliminates one of the causes of a drifting point of impact when a scope is first installed and sighted in.  The section of the screw that clamps into the receiver dovetail cutout is as cast and tends to bite out of alignment if the bottom of the ring does not make full contact on the dovetail. This point was driven home after a hunting companion took a nasty tumble down a hill and had his point of impact shift up 3 feet at 100 yards. This was not discovered until later in the hunt when he took careful aim for a heart shot on a moose facing him at about 75 yards.  He hit his trophy squarely in the forehead and ruining the skull plate on a nice set of antlers. The windage screw had shifted relieving all clamping force on the rear ring. Repeat this process when installing the rear ring lower assembly. Lapping the Rings Now is a good time to lap the scope rings inline with the receiver. This step eliminates all undo stress on the scope tube and extends scope life. Carefully follow the manufacture's instructions for lapping.  Brownell's offers these handy tools to lap 1 inch and 30MM rings as well as a full assortment of lapping compounds. Rarely will you find both rings in perfect alignment making these laps a worthwhile investment.  Misaligned rings tend to twist and bend the scope tube as it is tightened in position and if the misalignment is severe enough it can cause the scope to lose it's seal. Misaligned rings also cause receiver stress that has a negative affect on accuracy.  These problems are resolved by properly lapping the rings. Installing Friction Paper Prior to installing the scope in your newly mounted and lapped rings, place friction paper on the inside mating surface of both the ring bottom halves and the top caps. Small address labels work well in a pinch. The inside surfaces on Ruger rings are quiet rough and tend to scuff the contact area on the scope. Mounting and Aligning the Scope Place the scope in the rings making certain that the only points of contact with the firearm are the rings. The front (objective lens) must clear the barrel and rear sight.  Establish eye relief and level the cross hairs using the leveling kit made by Wheeler Engineering or one of the other leveling devices available.  This will eliminate a lot of frustrating trial and error guessing.  The Wheeler kit is a simple set and includes a level that is placed on the receiver and second level that is placed on the scope. First the action is leveled and then the scope.  Crosscheck between the levels making certain they have not shifted during the installation. A gentlemen brought me his rifle after he installed a set of rings complaining that although he had done a perfect installation the gun was way off at over 100 yards. The problem was easy to find, he had rotated the crosshairs a good 10 Degrees out of alignment during installation and had to cant the rifle to bring them in when shooting, thus placing the scope out of alignment with the bore. Install the top caps over the scope tube and reset the torque driver to 20 inch-lbs.  Now, using a crossing pattern and alternating between the front and rear ring, torque the screws. Be careful to maintain an even gap between the top caps and the bottom halves of the rings. Once the installation has been completed recheck crosshair alignment with the levels one last time and adjust if necessary. Bore sighting A quality Boresighter is a good investment and will save you time and ammunition. Lacking one you can place the rifle in a secure rest and sight through the bore at a distant object or light and without moving the firearm adjust the crosshairs to the same object. This will get you on the target at 25 yards. Your firearm is now ready to be sighted in with live ammo at the range. Safe hunting, Morris Melani